For those who don’t know, the american Mark Squires is the wine critic who is in charge of evaluating the portuguese wines for the prestigious website Robert Parker – Wine Advocate, recognized worldwide as the guru of wine criticism. In this publication, Squires chooses Julia Kemper’s Touriga Nacional 2013 wine as one of his favorites. The praises of the famous taster are not fixed, however, only on this particular wine, nor solely on the winemaking procedures. They extend to Julia Kemper’s own ecological production methods and the philosophy that underlies them, and where biodynamic and organic are elementary and scrupulously assumed concepts. An agriculture that respects the ecosystem, whose action in no way compromises Nature and where every gesture is designed not to pollute or interfere with the quality of the environment. Whether red, white or rosé, all Julia Kemper wines are ‘green’ at heart.
Now the review, in full:
Reviewers’ Favorites 2021: Mark Squires
Robert Parker – Wine Advocate
A Wine from a Producer That Exemplifies Sustainability:
2013 Julia Kemper Wines Touriga Nacional (Portugal, Dão)
The greener we go the better these days. Some wineries need no special hints in that regard. Julia Kemper owns one of the fine wineries in Portugal’s Dão region. She also does some things a wee bit differently. All of her wines (since she started in 2003) are biodynamic and certified organic. You’ll also note the 2013 vintage date here. It sounds like a reevaluation of a previously released wine, but this was just released in the USA and reviewed this summer. Julia told me that “we keep each vintage for some years before we release them into the market, with some exceptions….” Her wines are very reasonably priced despite their quality, the late release and the care with which they are made. This beauty only had a list price of $38. One of the nice things about producers like this is that I almost could’ve picked her for every category—something for tonight, a fine value, something green, something under the radar. You get the idea.
Read article winejournal.robertparker